Sunday, July 8, 2007

Nainital Summer

WE travelled upto Nainital at 6000 ft elevation in the Kumaoon Himalayas and enjoyed the clouds' invasion of lake Naini. At a height of about 8500 is the Cheena Peak and the trek is wonderful. Somehow we could not see enough birds...


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Taj on top of the World

On his visit to India, the then US President Bill Clinton,while addressing the Lower and the Upper Houses of Parliament had said that the world was divided into two halves...one of those who had seen the Taj and the other of those who hadn't...

I had then weaved an encounter between Clinton and Taj-builder King Shahjehan which was published in The Pioneer. Here is the piece...
TAJ HOUSE TO WHITE MAHAL


All by himself Shahjehan the great Moughal emperor walks on the grassy lawns in front of the Taj Mahal with a flower in his hands wearing his imperial robe. He is waiting for someone. The name of the visitor is announced and Bill Clinton arrives on the scene. Shahjehan expects him to bow before in Sijda but Clinton offers his hand. Shahjehan kisses his hand and offers him to sit on a concrete bench where millions and millions have posed for a photograph. Both sit on the bench and Shahjehan assures the apprehensive Clinton that the paparazzi can not come near them and click them for sale to interested editors of the tabloids of the West. “What about the Indian press, His Highness? Asks Clinton. ”Don”t worry they are all busy with Deepa Mehta! ”Informs Shahjehan.

Shahjehan begins talking.” Infact I was quite happy to notice you say to the Darbaris, they call them M.P.s these days, that the world was divided in two halves of those who had seen the Taj and those who hadn’t. I was happier to hear you say that you were going to be on the happier side eof the divide since you had scheduled to pay a visit to the Taj. And naturally it was to be so. I can not think of a man in the world who loves and is ignorant about Taj, which is love concretised, marbled, metamorphosed. However Mr.Prezi, I think I am I right in placing you, it would have been all the more better if you had brought your wife along because it is here that she could have come to terms with you and decided to stay with you in your White-Mahal, and you would have been saved of the embarrassment caused to you by snooping lensmen who take your shots with the royal Buddy and publish in newspapers. But I am told this has generated a sympathy wave for you there in your country.”

An amazed Clinton looks agape in the face of Shahjehan and quizzes, ”But how Your Majesty, you know all this now being almost a man in another world, joined perhaps with your lady love for whom you created the grammar of love in creating the Taj. I’ll ask the C.I.A. boys to learn a few tips from your system of “information and...!And Your Majesty, could you please elaborate on as to what isnpired to build such a fine mausoleum? Was it love alone? Really? I am told you had hundreds of women in your, what do they call it, hum m m, Harem! And Your Majesty, I have heard of certain poets as well who blamed you for having created the Taj only to make fun at their cost since being poor they could not please their beloveds in such an extravagant manner as you did…!”

“Let me tell you, Mr.Prez that there have been critics of the marble, meaning thereby the cost of Taj but there has been none who has criticised it as a symbol of love and I know of a poet who had gone to the extent of calling it a token given to me to the world to symbolise love in all its forms. Since its creation, lovers have sworn by Taj. And your being present here confirms this belief.” Now Mr.Prez if you have come to ask personal questions, would you, rest assured I am not going to tell it to anybody since I live in my grave and peep out of it only once in while, tell me what was that Mohtarma story which generated.

“Oh! Jesus! Your Majesty that is an old story. You know the people. They will be the same all the world over. But shouldn’t we be above all these things? Pleaded Clinton and Shahjehan preferring not to embarrass a guest in perfect Indian traditions gave an altogether new turn to the discussion. “ Well, Mr. Prez I have been hearing stories all these years from the guides that I had intended to build another Taj in black marble on the other side of Jamuna there…!” And Shahjehan points to a direction with Clinton looking as guided, Shahjehan requests,”With all those resources at your command and the world being on your side today and you being the king of the world, can you attempt making the Taj of the guides” dreams there at that site?

Clinton did not know how to wriggle out of the situation when the most powerful king of his times, begged of him a favour –creation of another symbol of love. And this time a black one. He said, ” Your Majesty, next time I come to India, I hope Ill be able to persuade Hillary to come along and then we can surely decide to consider the proposal. Maybe she gets inspired and chimes in! Till then you can be content with my assurance that I may atleast for myself, call my own residence there in my country, The White Mahal.”





Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Bountiful Glenwood Springs for family trips

Wrapped in mystery, Glenwood Springs in Colorado, US, appears as if it has for a long time been a favourite haunt of wanderers and holiday-makers. Today, the place is an economical and family-friendly stopover to the almost unaffordable Aspen, known worldwide for its skiing sites. Aspen is about 40 miles from here.
From Denver, we reached Glenwood Springs covering about 160 miles, through Vail, another ski destination, on the most eco-friendly highway called I-70. About 10 miles short of the place, we had an exciting experience wading through a serpentine mountainous tract that boasts of being one of the tentacles of the Grand Canyon — an awe-inspiring sight of a huge, red rock.
Until the middle of the 19th century, having been discovered as a gold mine area, this town at the confluence of Roaring Fork and Colorado rivers was called Defiance. During those times Glenwood Springs attracted tourists who were mainly interested in the ‘Fairy Caves’ with grottos and labyrinthine ducts. It was only in 1885 that Sarah Cooper, wife of one of the town’s founding fathers Issac Cooper, gave the place the name Glenwood Springs after her hometown Glenwood, Iowa.
In the late 1800s when the world’s largest hot spring pool was created here by Walter Devereaux and his brothers, the place was dotted with nearly three score such springs. Recreational activities now abound here, attracting hunters, fishermen, mountain bikers, hikers, river rafters, skiers, snowmobilers besides those who want to have a taste of yampah, meaning ‘big medicine’ since the hot water springs here are known to have curative properties to fight diseases.
No wonder then that the famous Doc Holliday, a hunter, gambler and a dentist, stayed here for 12 long years to cure himself of tuberculosis. He died in a room in Hot Springs Hotel and Lodge at the age of 38. His grave at Pioneer Cemetery is a must-visit for tourists but it is doubted whether Doc Holliday is actually buried there or not.
Standing on the rooftop of our Bed & Breakfast, Glenwood Motor Inn, and looking westward, we could have a breathtaking view of the Red Mountain, which had cottony clouds kissing its peaks. Rays of the setting sun made the entire horizon look like a collage of colours. On our east and at an elevation of about 1500 feet was the famous Cavern Adventure Park which could be approached on a cable car. One can find here the world’s First Alpine Coaster sliding through the downhill park with a speed of 50 miles an hour.
On the southern side lies the famous ski destination called Sunlight Mountain Resort offering snowmobiling and ice-skating. This place is a natural choice for "ski-stay-swim" tourists. The snowy peaks show up from here in varying hues. The average altitude of the mountains around Glenwood Springs reaches up to 13,000 feet while the place itself is at 5,700 feet. The view from the park of the Roaring Fork Valley is fascinating. Here is also America’s world famous Amtrak railhead from where one can reach the historical downtown and reach the Hot Springs pool.
The evening stroll from our hotel to the Hot Springs took us just five minutes and we again felt tempted to take a dip in the hot waters. Rain or snow, the pool is full to capacity. The mineral rich water is captured at 122 F and toned down to 93 to 104 F. There are two pools with temperatures slightly different from one another. The small Down Town area is close by with the City Hall and Police Station building. Chains of many continental eateries, besides the typically American ones, are all around. We preferred Mexican burette "to go" at Qudoba on the first day of our three-day stay. ‘To go’ means the stuff needs to be packed. ‘To stay’ means you are having it there itself.
Glenwood Springs attracts tourists all the year round and it can be reached by road as well as rail. There are about 14 direct air services but the three airports in Eagle County, Aspen and Grand Junction are 30, 40 and 90 miles from here. The accommodation is fairly cheap, almost one-fourth of what you get in the adjoining ski destination and town of fashionable and rich people, Aspen. Yes you can stay with your pets also at some of the places. They have declared a 12-mile stretch of the Roaring Fork River as the Gold Medal River where those interested in fishing find the best of trout. Back home, one is sure to miss the time spent in this beautiful valley town — Glenwood Springs.
Co-author:Chander Koumdi

This travelogue was published in The Tribune on July 1'07