Wrapped in mystery, Glenwood Springs in Colorado, US, appears as if it has for a long time been a favourite haunt of wanderers and holiday-makers. Today, the place is an economical and family-friendly stopover to the almost unaffordable Aspen, known worldwide for its skiing sites. Aspen is about 40 miles from here.
From Denver, we reached Glenwood Springs covering about 160 miles, through Vail, another ski destination, on the most eco-friendly highway called I-70. About 10 miles short of the place, we had an exciting experience wading through a serpentine mountainous tract that boasts of being one of the tentacles of the Grand Canyon — an awe-inspiring sight of a huge, red rock.
Until the middle of the 19th century, having been discovered as a gold mine area, this town at the confluence of Roaring Fork and Colorado rivers was called Defiance. During those times Glenwood Springs attracted tourists who were mainly interested in the ‘Fairy Caves’ with grottos and labyrinthine ducts. It was only in 1885 that Sarah Cooper, wife of one of the town’s founding fathers Issac Cooper, gave the place the name Glenwood Springs after her hometown Glenwood, Iowa.
In the late 1800s when the world’s largest hot spring pool was created here by Walter Devereaux and his brothers, the place was dotted with nearly three score such springs. Recreational activities now abound here, attracting hunters, fishermen, mountain bikers, hikers, river rafters, skiers, snowmobilers besides those who want to have a taste of yampah, meaning ‘big medicine’ since the hot water springs here are known to have curative properties to fight diseases.
No wonder then that the famous Doc Holliday, a hunter, gambler and a dentist, stayed here for 12 long years to cure himself of tuberculosis. He died in a room in Hot Springs Hotel and Lodge at the age of 38. His grave at Pioneer Cemetery is a must-visit for tourists but it is doubted whether Doc Holliday is actually buried there or not.
Standing on the rooftop of our Bed & Breakfast, Glenwood Motor Inn, and looking westward, we could have a breathtaking view of the Red Mountain, which had cottony clouds kissing its peaks. Rays of the setting sun made the entire horizon look like a collage of colours. On our east and at an elevation of about 1500 feet was the famous Cavern Adventure Park which could be approached on a cable car. One can find here the world’s First Alpine Coaster sliding through the downhill park with a speed of 50 miles an hour.
On the southern side lies the famous ski destination called Sunlight Mountain Resort offering snowmobiling and ice-skating. This place is a natural choice for "ski-stay-swim" tourists. The snowy peaks show up from here in varying hues. The average altitude of the mountains around Glenwood Springs reaches up to 13,000 feet while the place itself is at 5,700 feet. The view from the park of the Roaring Fork Valley is fascinating. Here is also America’s world famous Amtrak railhead from where one can reach the historical downtown and reach the Hot Springs pool.
The evening stroll from our hotel to the Hot Springs took us just five minutes and we again felt tempted to take a dip in the hot waters. Rain or snow, the pool is full to capacity. The mineral rich water is captured at 122 F and toned down to 93 to 104 F. There are two pools with temperatures slightly different from one another. The small Down Town area is close by with the City Hall and Police Station building. Chains of many continental eateries, besides the typically American ones, are all around. We preferred Mexican burette "to go" at Qudoba on the first day of our three-day stay. ‘To go’ means the stuff needs to be packed. ‘To stay’ means you are having it there itself.
Glenwood Springs attracts tourists all the year round and it can be reached by road as well as rail. There are about 14 direct air services but the three airports in Eagle County, Aspen and Grand Junction are 30, 40 and 90 miles from here. The accommodation is fairly cheap, almost one-fourth of what you get in the adjoining ski destination and town of fashionable and rich people, Aspen. Yes you can stay with your pets also at some of the places. They have declared a 12-mile stretch of the Roaring Fork River as the Gold Medal River where those interested in fishing find the best of trout. Back home, one is sure to miss the time spent in this beautiful valley town — Glenwood Springs.
Co-author:Chander Koumdi
This travelogue was published in The Tribune on July 1'07
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